Caging, whatever you use, should be of adequate size and ease of cleaning and usage. For most of the Thamnophis species a 10 gallon is plenty of space. Yet a 20 gallon “long” is quite sufficient for an adult pair. Since none of the snakes in the genus Thamnophis grow over a length of about 50 in, the keeper should not be concerned about a large captive space. Thamnophis also have a great ability to adapt to the confines of captivity, so the cage size can remain the same throughout its life. Having a snake requires that you place great deal of attention on tank security. Any person with a snake can tell you this is a must. Don’t believe anything to be “good enough”, when security is concerned you should go the extra mile. On my cages, I use a lid that fits on the inside lip on the top edges if the tank, that clips onto and holds itself secure to the lip. A second secured top over the first assures a bonus to keeping these “escaping magicians” to the confines of their home. These snakes can squeeze their way through the small holes in some cage tops, so keep this in mind when you choose a lid, meshed tops work well and keep them from going free. Also keep in mind that these crafty buggers can squeeze through cracks between the lids and the cage. Make sure the lids fit tight along the aquarium you use.

  There are several choices of substrate that can be used for cage bedding. I like to take the cleaning of my cages into consideration when choosing bedding. If you want a “natural” look to your pets home, I recommend using a commercial brand such as Forest Bed or Bed-a-beast. These work well and can hold humidity at safe levels. Make sure when these items are used to squeeze out as much of the water before it is placed in the tank. The bedding is easily spot cleaned where fecal matter is present and keeps mold and fungus away. Other beddings that are good to use iclude aspen shavings, fir bark, orchid bark and cypress. When using any bedding like these, it is important to feed the snake in a controlled area, as bedding may be impacted if ingested. Other great beddings to use are newspaper and paper towels. Both are easily available, easy to remove, and quite absorbent. They may not look the best, but they work well in any facet of herpetocultural husbandry. The clean-up of the two are equally easy and take no time to remove and replace. They are safer to use and are the easiest to use as well.

Lighting

  First off, turtles and most lizards are in need of full spectrum light, but as for snakes this is not needed. They capable of living in ambient light coming in from windows. So, you have options when it comes to lighting with snakes. You can use the cheap incandescent light bulbs or better full-spectrum lighting, which adds to the beauty and color of the snake. Things to watch out for are exposed bulbs. Incandescent bulbs get very hot, so make sure any captive animal is out of reach from them. Thamnophis are a diurnal (daytime) snake, so lights will not bother them as much as they would a nocturnal (nighttime) species. Make sure they have a hiding spot that is dark so they can choose to be out of the light if they so desire. Lighting of which you use should be kept on a timer for about 10-12 hours a day. Using a timer helps maintain a healthy day/night cycle for your snake.

  Food items. First off, the natural diet of Thamnophis is basically fish, frogs, crayfish, earthworms, and small rodents. They have been documented eating bird prey in some species. So, there is a number of items that these snakes can take as food. Fish are easily available in most pet shops. Guppies and chubs are best, and goldfish should never be offered. Amphibians are easily accepted by Thamnophis. Amphibians are loaded with good nutrition but are not that easy to come by to provide a lot of. They run a risk of parasite infection as well. Once your snake can start feeding on mice pinks, it can remain on that diet. Some also may take earthworms, yet they are really not full of the needed nutrients. So I do not use them at all, and neither have I had one in captivity ever eat or seem interested in one. I have noticed that Thamnophis may require a scenting of fish to aid them in eating mice. Bear in mind, small mice are better to feed, and I recommend using pinkies exclusively. Baby Thamnophis can start on guppies until they reach a good size to start feeding on mice.

  When feeding, only offer enough food that will make a small buldge in the snake's gut. They should never be overfed. A meal once a week for babies and once every 10-14 days for adults will suffice. Snakes that are more active can be feed  frequently, say once a week.

  Other needed accessories. You will need a hiding place for your snake. Snakes need a place of privacy to keep from getting stressed, which if stressed, a snake will eventually die. A small plastic hide box and hide logs work well. You can use just about anything, but keep in mind it will be soiled and must be cleaned or tossed away. I use a plastic hiding area. They are easily cleaned and provide a great hiding place. Another item you will need is a water bowl. Thamnophis are water loving herps that will soak in water from time to time. This aids in the shedding process as well (other shedding devises may be its hiding place, or sticks and branches placed in the cage if you so desire). The water bowl will also be a great place to place fish that you may offer. Make sure the bowl is big enough to soak in and that it will not tip over in the cage. The bowl must be always clean and changed at least once a week. Again I recommend using plastic bowls. The snake will eat, swim, shed and defecate in it so it must be easy to clean. Remember anything within the cage must be able to be cleaned on a regular basis. Anything that will soak in water, feces or cleaning agents should not be used.