|
|
|
|
Brumating Colubrid Snakes.
Brumation in general terms, is the "hibernation" of reptiles. Brumation is the period of inactivity snakes(and other herps) in temperate regions undergo during the winter months. While brumating, snakes experience limited activity and at most are not completely unconscience. When it comes to brumating, certain rules apply. Since the animal will be cooled, the science of this activity is changed from that of normal conditions. If a snake is kept too warm during the process, bacteria and parasites in the snake’s system could remain active. Since snakes will be placed in a state where their immune systems have been lowered, it is easier for them fall victim to disease or infection that they would normally be able to fight.
While some keepers suggest gradually dropping the temperature over several days, there is evidence to suggest that this may result in respiratory infections and an overall reduction in the immune system of the snake. To look at it another way, snakes have a choice when they decide the temperatures they are surrounded by in the wild. It is common knowledge that since the seasons change slowly, that brumation steps are to be taken the same way. The point that folks seem to miss is the fact that snakes can decide when and where they go. Not all is the same as we see it up here. Underground and benneth rocks and in dens, the hibernaculum of any given snake is at a more constant and cooler temperature. These temps range from 40-60°F respectively during the winter. To a snake, there is no cooling down period in the wild, just a straight shot to the cooler area once they see fit too it. Due to food and seasonal changes and their own biological clock, they simply go away for their winter home. So to return to the subject, once the snake’s digestive system has cleared, it can be placed into a container at the appropriate hibernating temperature.
Before introducing your snakes to the lowered temps, a few rules should be followed. Any and all snakes should be very healthy and at good weight. Never brumate a snake that is ill, underweight or you are unsure about in this regard. Do not feed your snake anywhere from 2-4 weeks before brumating. This will insure that all food content in the gut is passed. Any remaining food will rot and cause problems right away. Fresh water should be offered during the whole duration. Snakes are still active, although not as so under normal conditions, but they still drink and need water. When replacing any water, make sure it is about the same temp as the temp the brumation area is at. Warm water will lead to higher humidity and raise the temps. The containers used to house the snakes during this time should have the appropriate substrate. I use aspen myself, so that snakes have a barrier from possible extreme temperature changes. This also allows them to bury and "insulate" themselves if need be. It should remain particularlly dry as well. Any spilt water should be cleaned up, as well as any spoiled substrate. Check your snakes every few days to every week to make sure all goes well. Stress will lead to problems, so do not disturb them as much as you can. Make any needed changes as simple and fast as possible. When putting your snakes in their new home for the next few months, remember to not cool them down prior, just place them straight into their new cold world.
When choosing a place to cool, many options are available. Currently I brumate my snakes outdoors in a storage area. The door is weatherproofed so drafts are non-exsistant. Another choice is to simply open a window in your snake room during the winter months to allow cold air in. I know folks that use insulated boxes in a cold area free from extreme temps. Just choose a place that will allow an average temp of 45-60° with fresh air flow. Make sure the area is free from drafts, humid areas and places that contain anything harmful to your snakes.
Now, brumation lengths differ as well from species to species, depending on the natural environment a snake is from. California Kings would not need such a cool temperature as Sonoran Mountain Kings would. The Mtn Kings are a montane species, so naturally their brumation lasts a few weeks longer and is a few degrees cooler. This should be applied to brumating snakes in captivity as well. Snakes from a lower elevated habitat, can go an average of 12 weeks of brumation with good results. Recommended length for montane species would be 14-16 weeks. Temperatures for both can be kept at a 45-60° average. I brumate mine between 40-55°. Montane species seem to do better with and average of 40-50°. I have both lower elevation snakes such as Cali Kings and montane species such as AZ Mtn. Kings brumating together in the same room. Keeping them both at the same timeframe and temperature has worked fine for me. I may take the Cali Kings out 12 weeks into brumation lets say, and the rest of the montanes end at about ~15 weeks.
The end of brumation is the reverse of the start. Simply place your snakes back into a temperture gradient of ~74°-84° (depending on requirements per species), with heat available. No transitional "warm-up" period is needed at all. Returning snakes back to feeding should be done carefully. I give snakes 24 hours before I offer food so they have time to warm and adjust. Smaller than usual meals should be given as well, since it has been months since they have had any meals. Feeding about every 5 days quickly allows snakes to digest and reclaim their natural weight. Once they are back to a normal wight, larger food items spaced further apart can be done. Females may need more food to gain weight for any breeding plans if need be.
bravenet.com